There is a moment, when the ice starts thickening around the hull and the horizon turns white, that you suddenly remember exactly how far north you have come.
The day began with the 8am PA announcement from Expedition Leader James, talking us through the plan, the weather, and the morning ahead. We were sailing in Wijdefjorden, the longest fjord in Svalbard at 108 kilometres, cutting deep into the north coast of Spitsbergen.
Breakfast was a buffet affair, although on a ship of this size it feels far more relaxed than that word suggests. Plenty of choice and beautifully done. From there we headed back to the cabin, then up to the Ice Lounge for a morning lecture on expedition photography using your smartphone. I shoot all my content on my iPhone these days, so this was right up my street. Every day really is a school day, and I came away with a some new tips.
While the first group returned from their landing, we were called to head ashore. Today we chose the moderate hike. A great pace, taking in the walruses lying on the shore and then looping closer to the glacier. Our guide Pelin was excellent, stopping at intervals to talk through the walruses, the glacier, and to answer the steady stream of questions from our group. Underfoot was tundra, shingle, snow and patches of ice. I have been borrowing a walking pole each landing for that extra point of stability, and I would absolutely recommend it.
Back on board, we were greeted with hot raspberry tea and walrus shaped biscuits.
The small touches here continue to delight.
Lunch was served in Two Seven Zero. A warming soup followed by butter chicken. Lunchtime is a waiter served affair, and the food and service across this ship are phenomenal.
After lunch came another lecture in the Ice Lounge, this time a behind the lens session with one of the National Geographic photographers on board. She had also been assisting our guide on our shore landing earlier and offering photography tips out in the field. Hearing about her career and the projects she has worked on was genuinely fascinating.
From there we headed out onto the open decks because we were sailing past Moffen, a small low lying island just north of Spitsbergen and one of the most reliable places in the Arctic to find walruses. We were in luck. The beach was lined with them. A newborn calf had arrived that very day, with gulls cleaning up the umbilical cord on the sand. Astonishing to witness.
An announcement followed inviting anyone who wanted expedition patches sewn onto the arms of their parkas to drop them off, with the jackets returned to your cabin ready for later.
Shortly after, a second announcement: anyone wanting to borrow a camera from the OM System gear locker on board should head up. I went and was given one to use for the next couple of days, so fellow guests have a chance to try them too. A brilliant initiative, letting people test new kit in one of the most stunning places on Earth, completely free.
The daily recap followed in the Ice Lounge, with photographs from the National Geographic team showing the walks and wildlife from across the day. Snippets followed from various experts: more on walruses, the history of the walrus ivory trade, an on board researcher studying microbes in the ocean, and detail on the glacier we visited this morning. Then the plan for tomorrow, and the weather.
Dinner in Two Seven Zero, where we sat with a lovely couple from Montreal and Pelin, our guide from earlier. Delicious food and brilliant company, all while the view outside slowly turned to ice.
The Captain had told us yesterday we would be pushing into the ice tonight and tomorrow. It started not long after dinner, with the thicker pack ice expected around midnight. The sun is still high. It does not set here until the end of August. National Geographic Resolution is a Polar Class 5 Cat A ice strengthened ship, and watching her move through the ice with such ease is quite something. We have spent a lot of this evening on the open Bridge, listening in as the Captain and Expedition Leader debate the route.
Surreal does not quite cover it.
We stayed up late watching the ice and spotted our first Polar Bear! The excitement on deck was electric! So much excitement and hundreds of poised camera!
When retiring to bed we kept the PA on in the cabin so we wouldnβt miss any wildlife calls. This is the stretch where we have the best chance of spotting more polar bears.
If you love science, exploration, wildlife, and cruising, this is absolutely the trip for you.
Would you stay up watching the ice, or trust the PA to wake you when it mattered?
Lois : π½π π²πππππ π²ππππππ 
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